I need to get a cabochon for my jewelry class - we are going to learn how to do a bezel setting - instructions were for a stone cab, not too soft, but I was thinking glass might be fun and different.
Do any of you glass folk make such a thing? If so, can you point me to your site/auction(s)?
Thanks! Pam
I'm guessing "stone" means CZ or some other simulated gemstone that doesn't have the natural "flaws" a real stone would have. We used faceted stones.
The trouble with using glass, at this time, is that it requires a slightly different firing process, and the PMC3.
Tina
I didn't see anything about using PM. Is it too early for me, or was there an earlier thread? There is a woman here in New England who not only uses glass cabs in her bezel sets, cause they're really protected, but uses great rocks. When I first met her, I told her that my high school photography teacher had a rock/sterling engagement ring, that her husband (a silversmith) had made from a rock that they had picked up on their first date.
It was really beautiful.
Anyway, that was a long way to say that I'll bet whatever stone/glass you choose, you will have a blast learning the bezel.
I would not suggest that you start with any thing other than a standard stone cab. When teaching classes I find that those that really want to learn the technique are much better off to stick with the instructors agenda. One of the reasons for staying with a strandard cab is that the bezel wire is designed in various widths and those are designed to fit standard cabs quite easily. Using something standard also means less headaches as you learn. Once you get the basics then branch out.
Susan W
Hi Pam, I can check to see if I have any small ones in boro. I just took a beginning PMC class and used a simple one with a piece I did. The boro anneals at 1050 and will stay solid at a temp. hotter than that. I can't recall the temperature that the instructor fired the piece but I might be able to find out.
Here's a picture of the first piece I did. I am thinking of putting a patina on it. It's hard to see the detail in the picture. I got the texture with a piece of lace and the little balls you see are actually fine silver casting grain.
Whoops, answered too early in the morning. I read the other response and saw the reference and thought I had just missed it in the original post. Sorry.
yes, this isn't PMC class - just regular beginners jewelry/metalwork class - instructions were "get a cab, flat on the bottom, preferably round or oval as they are easier, and don't get a stone that is too soft. Oh and not too big, and not too small as you might lose it - or if you get a small one, get several in case you lose it - maybe between 12-30 mm would be a good size - you will be making a ring or a pendant, whichever you prefer."
I figure those instructions are pretty loose - am wondering why a glass cab would be any different to set than a stone cab - unless the shape is really that different. I also have to buy the bezel silver - so I can get as thick or thin as I think I need with whatever cab I get. Perhaps I should wait to play with the glass until I get my kiln and start playing with PMC? Nah, I think I want a glass cab, and I'll bring a back up stone cab of some sort in case the glass one doesn't work...
Pam
The reason to get a hard stone, but not a soft one or glass, would be than when you use a bezel pusher to tighten the setting it is so easy to slip and scratch a soft stone or glass.
Sorry about mixing up the PMC reference.
Tina
If you look at the sides of stone cabs they are not as steep as most glass cabs. They are cut so that the bezel will have a surface of enough depth/width for the bezel to go over. I make glass cabs and we do lampwork. I do wirewrapping and I do silversmithing. I can say from experience that you are much better off to learn on a standard cab.
Do what you want but if you want to learn do the standard cab first and then go on to odd cabs as your experience allows. Frustrated silversmiths are not a happy lot and you can learn alot more doing several standards, perfecting your techniques, then branch out.
Susan W
Thank you Susan, that is the info I needed to know - not having a stone cab or a glass cab in front of me to look at.
Pam
Don't worry about scratching the glass. You really can't do that with a decent bezel pusher. They have no sharp edges. Malachite, mother of pearl, turquoise -- those are the type of stones to watch out for. BTW- I have about 100 dichro cabs sitting in my studio waiting for me to do something with them. They range in price from $4.00 up to 25.00. I usually only sell them when I get so many that the drawer no longer holds any more..........But if you want a cab, tell me size, color and $ you want to spend..........and I"ll throw in a hematite cab with it so you can try both. (if interested, reply by e-mail). Barbara Dream Master
"We've got two lives, one we're given, the other one we make." Mary Chapin Carpenter
If I were to select a standard cab to start work I would try picture jasper. I like the look, the stone is cheap, easy to find in standard sizes and not real slick. I find hemitite and some other highly polished stones slippery. I would avoid soft stones like lapis, malachite, turquoise. Stay with a harder stone. Check the rock shops for a good value. You'll be proud of this piece and want to keep it if only as a here's where i came from example.
Good luck!
Susan W
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