Finishing questions

I won't bore y'all with details of why but instead of spending time online, I've been shopping for more embroidery projects and stitching my little fingers to the bone.

One of the completed projects was a stumpwork floral design from Inspiration magazine. The back of my work is never smooth but the stubs of wire made this back even more three dimensional than usual. To even things out a bit, I put a piece of batting between the stitching and the backing board. Can someone point me to a reference (free is good) for a good way to finish wired stumpwork?

I'm also looking for a reference that might provide step by step instructions so that the embroidery overlaps a mat or frame instead of sitting quietly behind either of 'em.

Reply to
anne
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I bought myself the Jane Nicholas books for Christmas (my, I bought myself lots of gifts) but haven't worked through it yet. From what I see in there though, the wires are stitched down to the back of the fabric. Am I reading this correctly? Then a backing and stiffener (interfacing acid-free cardboard) is applied, depending on the use of the object - felt seems to be quite common as a backing. People who actually do stumpwork, am I reading this right?

I've been stitching (and ripping) so much this weekend I feel like I have a hangover. I'm nearly done another section of my Iris np though. My alternate activity seems to be wandering out into the garden to count the number of tulips/muscari coming up. 18/32 bulbs planted last year so far. Dora

Reply to
bungadora

To my knowledge, stumpwork is usually worked on a heavier satin fabric and lined with one or two layers of muslin (calico) depending upon the degree of opacity and thickness (stiffness) required. The wires are stitched down to the backing.

It is bulky. But this configuration fits nicely and smoothly on a jar lid for Framecraft products (which stretches the piece considerably). And, should frame up quite nicely.

The layers of fabric must be kept taut at all times. It can be worked in a hoop or stapled to a frame if your piece is large. Iron-on interfacing would not allow you to stitch the wires down independently from the upper satin. Pellon might work, but would be difficult to get the needle in/out. Same with heavier felt. Thin felt would be no better than one or two layers of muslin.

Dianne

bungadora wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Just overcast with 1 thread I would think, no kinks in the wire. Is the wire stitched to conform to the shape under which it is placed?

I was thinking more along the terms of a backing added after the piece had been completed to cover the yucks on the back. Like a brooch, for example. The piece is stitched, then mounted on a backing, other embellishment might be added and felt is often put on the back to cover up all the rough edges, etc.

I was thinking of Anne's desire for an overlapping piece. Wouldn't you just cut a piece of surface fabric, work it, cut it to shape, and then applique it over the sections you want the fabric to overlap?

Ah! So many techniques, so little time.

Dora

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Reply to
bungadora

Not sure what you mean by "no kinks". The wires are bent so that they are under the shape. You stitch them down (overcast them) to the backing fabric. You work the satin and one (or two) pieces of muslin at the same time (as if they were one).

Of course.

I'm unsure what Anne is trying to do. But to do stumpwork, you need more than one layer of fabric if you are working with wires. There's no reason, however, that she couldn't cut it to shape and applique it to a larger piece. You can also make flowers (and perhaps other shapes, haven't tried) without stitching them to fabric. They are freeform and you put the petals together and wrap the "stem" (all the wires from each petal). That you could attach to a piece of ground rather simply.

Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

No kinks meaning the wire should lie flat against the fabric, and not bunch up. I was visualizing a crafting disaster based on experience, I guess, LOL. I've done a bit of jewelery/wire work with sterling silver, and once the wire is bent it can be difficult to get it straightened out again.

Thanks Dianne. It's an interesting little 3D problem. My personal preference is for bugs though. Jane Nicholas does lovely bugs. Dora

Reply to
bungadora

Dianne Lewandowski said

The instructions for the first stumpwork piece I stitched specified a sandwich

-- nice fabric then Vilene then muslin. I substituted a very lighweight stabilizer for the Vilene but did something wrong -- when the work was completed, the top layer had wrinkles. I probably hadn't stretched the pieces tight enough. When I did my next pieces, I didn't use a "sandwich" to avoid the wrinkles. Since last we typed, I did another small stumpwork design and used a piece of narrow quilt batting for the middle layer. Film at eleven or whenever I take the time to take pictures and throw 'em online ;-)

Reply to
anne

I give up. What's vilene?

I've never seen instructions for three layers. I've seen instructions for using vilene (whatever that is, I used oil cloth) to use as a pad under the embroidery (pieces to be attached later). Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

IIRC, vilene is the EU equivalent of pellon. Not sure if it's the iron on type, tho' -- I'm sure one of our EU members or someone from OZ can tell us more precisely. This is something that is talked about over at RCTQ when appliqué and other related stuff is discussed. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

It`s a white synthetic interfacing that comes in three weights - either plain so it needs stitching into place, or "fusible" (Iron-on). Mostly used for adding body to collars, waistbands and lapels etc.

Pat P

Reply to
Pat P

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