There was something the other day. Apparently NASA has released some emails that went back and forth between him and both women. It seems odd to me that they did that, unless they're trying to discredit the other one and let her use an insanity plea.
I'm sure she was off kilter to do something like that in the first place and it probably would be less scandalous for NASA to deal with that way.
Lucille
Does that mean that he is still employed by NASA ? Though thinking about it, I suppose it would be somewhat difficult for them to fire him.
I don't know the answer to that but I suppose I could google it and get the answer.
No I don't need it. Bobbie
Astronaut E-mail story
There is sure to be a movie, it almost seems larger than life doesn't it ?
As a government agency, they are subject to Freedom of Information Act requests.
CFS activists got some very interesting memos by FOIA-ing the government health agencies, information about collusion I'm sure they wish had never gotten out. You'd think after that, they would've told every government employee to never write anything incriminating ever again, but apparently not!
But the Freedom of Information Act would allow that material to be withheld if releasing it would damage national security or compromise an ongoing investigation or prosecution. Not every document requested under the FIA is released.
Elizabeth
You beat me to that part.
The stuff that went out is only the tip of the iceberg.
But I agree with Sheena, sounds like a made for TV movie...
C
I like qsnaps when the project fits inside it, don't like to use them on large pieces. overhanging fabric gets in the way.
other thing about qsnaps is they don't keep good tension on the fabric. I am constantly tightening them, pita....
Somewhat after the fact - but no one mentioned these scroll bars, so thought I'd do a bit of enabling. I switch from Q-snaps to Scroll bars, with respect to the project (stretcher bars for canvas work). However, there is a company which makes scroll rods using Q-snap covers. They're called "Handi-Clamps" and according to their labelling have license from Q-snap (I think the Q-snap folks may provide the plastic cover part). Anyhow, they work very well - we sell a lot of them in the shop. I have some of those, and some traditional ones as well. WRT to the traditional - I just use the local handy thread and do a running basting stitch - with a back-stitch at the beginning= to hold it. Putting the linen about an inch up onto the scroll fabric, about 1/2 inch from linen edge. Then I do a 2nd quick set of stiches at the edge of the scroll frame fabric - tacking it to the linen (keeps that piece from flapping annoyingly when things are rolled/unrolled).
Link to the handi-clamps:
Is there any way to attach the linen when it is wider than the scroll frame. I have a large project (Black Swan) and my scroll bars are only 20". I am working on a hoop at present. Thanks for any help.
rolled/unrolled).
Well, first the question is how much wider than the rods is the fabric? If it's only a couple of inches, then you can fold in that margin, on either side and just baste through it, along the sides and at the top and bottom. If you don't baste down the length of the margin, the folded over piece will flap around - she says from experience. If it's just a tiny fold over, no big deal. But, if over an inch - then it seems to be unwieldy down the sides if not tacked down. Just be sure to do a big baste so that it removes easily without any damage to your linen after you finish and iron it out.
The easiest thing, though not neessarily cheapest - is just to get a longer set of scroll rods. IME most of the brands are interchangeable - the screws on the end should go through the holes on your sidebars. Personally, I have some 23" ones, and I know that we have 22",23",24" and 26" rods in the shop. And we actually have some really huge ones that "And a Forest Grew" is on (it's a come and stitch on it project in the shop). Personally, if it's a big project, and you're going to be working on it for a while, and the $$ aren't a big issue, I'd probably get my LNS to order me a set of larger scroll rods. At the least, the smallest size that will let you attach to, even with a small folded over margin. If you have a huge part folded in, that runs into the stitched area, not good.
Good luck - which Black Swan piece - just curious. Let me know separately if there's anything I can do to help you.
Ellice
Sometimes you get lucky and can rotate the scroll frame. For example, if your piece was say 27" wide by 12" high, put the 12" high on the 20" scroll rods and you would just be scrolling the width instead of height.
Usually doesn't luck out that way and unless you have a floorstand to hold the larger rods, you might be more comfortable with the weight of a hoop or a q-snap in your hands (there are extenders for the q-snap).
I'm sure it goes without saying that you need to remove the hoop every time you put the project down. To help avoid hoop marks, I also put acid free white tissue paper between top hoop and the fabric and tear the paper to create an opening to stitch. Not perfect but helps a little.
The 80+ year-old lady who stitched the Mirabilia and Lavendar-Lace models for our shop did so on a hoop and always brought in the most perfect, mark-free pieces for framing any of us had ever seen. She also didn't start in the center of the pattern because she was always in a hurry to see the faces -- I wouldn't trust myself counting that out.
It's all in what you are comfortable with, no use making it an unpleasant project.
This is another one of "those" things. One doesn't necessarily *need* to remove the hoop. I've been embroidery for over 40 years and I have never removed my hoop between stitching sessions (and I sometimes go many days between sessions). I've also never had a problem with hoop marks. I use the old-fashioned 5" metal & cork hoops, can't stand the screw-type, wooden or plastic.
Nor do I or a great many others. I seem to start randomly at whichever point makes the most sense to me. Usually it's one of the main colors so I have something to work from, but not always.
Now I think we can *all* agree with this statement! :):):)
Joan
The cork, like tissue paper, really helps with mark avoidance (and the metal is better at avoiding marks and easier to wipe clean than plastic or wooden hoops). "Days" between stitching is different from stitchers who leave projects in hoops for weeks or months at a time.
I've stitched for more than 30 years myself and in the first few years, I did get some nasty surprises from hoop marks. Some of my first projects were not-quick-to-stitch MarBek angels and as a military family we moved a lot -- which meant things got packed up a lot and when unpacking needlework ... I learned not to take chances. It's not something the "cross-stitch police" enforced on me.
The plastic and wood hoops tend to really mold into the fabric and attract every stray bit of oil or dirt available to make things worse (and some of the cheaper wood hoops are very rough/splintery inside and sometimes even have remnants of machine oil from their manufacturing). Anyone washing (by hand or by dishwasher) plastic containers knows how greasy stuff clings to plastic--that's true even if it's only the natural oils from your hands.
As with everyth>
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