Let's discuss pressing seams.... again!

Leslie, it's so good to hear that you're beginning to feel a lot better! Don't push yourself harder than you should; you need to take some time to really heal.

As for your question, I think that line is where the bulk of an extra layer or two "rubs" -- my own theory. ;) I suspect that it would also occur on seams that were pressed open, but it might -- as you suggest -- not happen as quickly, since the bulk would be smaller. I really have no idea!

Hop on, there's lots of room!

marcella

If we Renegades have to sit on a bench, I think we should at least have some ice cream while we're sitting. :)

I have read a lot of pros to the "press the seams open" and usually hear cheering from the renegade bench ;-). A couple of days ago I was watching a Karen Combs DVD and she said to press the seams open.

I have never pressed my seams open but I think I am going to try a "walk on the wild side" and just go crazy and press them open. What could possibly happen!?!?!?!?

Leslie, I, too, am happy to hear from you. I hope you give the Med. Comm. H3LL!!!

Marsha in nw, Ohio

one of the main reasons for pressing seams to

I always press to one side because that's the way I was taught, which just means that's the way I was taught! [g!]

But if you don't, when you want to match seams, you wouldn't be able to "feel the click" when the two seams are matched, would you?

Or does it matter?

I do like well-matched seams.

Martha

I rather suspect, Martha, that some of the success in 'feeling the click' has to do with how much pressure the SM's presser foot is exerting on the fabric coming through as well as the specific action of your SM's feed dogs. My own favorite for piecing is a Bernina whose pressure is set to stitch light-weight baby garments. That just could be what causes my seams (when pressed to the side) to roll and shift just a thread or two. When the seams are pressed open, they seem to stay where I put them better. Without boring ourselves silly, it is probably just a matter of YMMV. Break a rule if you want to. Polly

"Martha" one of the main reasons for pressing seams to

It doesn't matter. You can see exactly where those seams meet up.

I love this group! My sister took classes and learned to press open. I learned from books and learned to press to the side (which never made sense to me if you have to worry about a "scant" 1/4" seam. My next quilt will be open pressed seams. Never could figure out why they would wear well on clothing but not quilts. I'm marching over the the Renegade Bench!

Welcome, Phyllis. Bring some extra spoons. I'm testing ice cream recipes for Father's Day and you can help judge the quality. Polly

"Phyllis Nilsson" wrote >I love this group! My sister took classes and learned to press open. I

LOL I learned to make clothes, with pressed open seams. Then went to using a serger, which means seams are pressed to one side,a rebellious idea at the time. Quilting traditionally has seams pressed to one side, and the "rebels" are now pressing open. I see some irony in the whole situation.

I have pressed seams in quilting both ways, open and to the side. In general I prefer to one side, because it makes it easier to match up seams. At least for me. I also tend to press so that I can "twirl" seams around an intersection whenever possible. (Which is also what is done with hand piecing.) This means "popping" open the seam allowance seam but that is fairly easy and quick to do. Pressing quarter inch seams open is a pain, sometimes literally, for me. My fingers are often not up to opening that small a seam.

So, whatever works is fine. Whatever you are comfortable with and gives you the results you want is the best way to do it.

And, Patti, I can see the reasoning in miniatures. Often small blocks also have the seam allowances trimmed to be much smaller. When piecing small blocks by hand one recommendation is to trim the darker seam allowance to be a bit narrower than the lighter. or the one on the batting side of the seam can be trimmed a bit to sort of grade the allowances and create less bulk. It all partly depends on the block and the end use, as well as the batting used.

There will always be wear on seams. Any fold of the fabric creates bulk of some sort and that means it will wear. That is why clothes tend to tear at seams, not that the thread cuts the fabric, but there is wear at that point which weakens the fabric and allows it to tear more easily. This will happen regardless of thread used. However a finer thread will create less bulk. Which allows a sharper crease, but that may mean even more wear. It can go on and on. I think we have to accept the fact that wear happens. And it will happen/show faster at some places. Guess that just means having to replace whatever it is-- quilt or clothing-- when it happens, or before. Better get to sewing!

Good luck with it, Pati, > I love this group! My sister took classes and learned to press open. I

Little late here, but I'm so glad to here you are doing better! Continued prayers that your recovery goes better than the hospital stay!!!

The way I learned at the beginners' course I took at my LQS was to press to one side, such that when two seams meet you try to get it worked out so that one lump is on one side and one is on the other - then when you hold the two pieces together to assemble the crossing seam, you move them back and forth in your hands to "snuggle" them together until they settle into place. I thought that was the "click" that Martha was talking about.

Louise

Exactly. The "experts" recommend having the seam allowance that faces the feed dogs be facing toward the front, the one on top facing the the back. That way the feed dogs will pull the bottom seam allowance toward the seam, and the presser foot will push the top s.a. toward the seam. It's supposed to help get them matched perfectly. Sometimes it even works. ;)

Very diplomatic, Pat!

Thats where I have difficulties with paper piecing. When you join the different sections of a block together there is no choice on which way the seams lie, and you can't get them to 'nestle'. Normnally my joins are pretty good, but I always seem to have to redo them when I pp.

Ah! That used to be very true Sally; but with Judy Mathieson's latest method - freezer paper and you don't sew through the paper, you can actually change from the natural way of the seam being folded, if that is what you want for some effect or other. Also, doing your PP without the seam allowance included on the paper, makes it easier to join sections, as you are not trying to match points with the paper there too. . In message , Sally Swindells writes

Is there info some place about her PP method? I'm always looking for new (easier) ways to do anything!

I will get my Judy M book out and give it a go (when my cold has gone. First one in about 10 years.)

Sally, have you read Judy Mathieson's book on Mariner's Compass quilts? She has a paper piecing technique you might like, since you can decide where the seams will go. Either that, or you could get Carol Doak's DVD on paper piecing and see how she makes sure her seams match; she uses a basting technique that's just about foolproof. :)