Need help with FM quilting

Usually I do most if not all of my needle work before putting a backing on a wallhanging. Then I quilt the back on with minimal lines, mostly straight. But the piece I'm working on now has to be quilted with the shape of the design all the way through. I started out with good quality variegated thread top and bottom. Same thread. And no matter how I adjust tension I end up with too loose on the bottom. The top thread is hanging in little loops while the bottom thread is just sitting there, sort of free floating. Then I switched to monofilament "invisible" thread and instantly everything is fine. The tension is perfect and no more loopies on the back.

Grrrrrrr. I really need some color on the top in the quilting.

So the question is: why can't I adjust the tension to work with the quilting thread? Why does the monofiliment work when the pretty thread doesn't and is there anything I can do to be able to use the nice thread.

Keep in mind I'm quilting on a challenging "sandwich." The front is heavily pieced and the designs (birds) are appliqued on and the back is pieced batik. I know, batik is bad for backing. But it works better than anything else and is perfect so I have to use it.

Is there a brand of variegated thread that works better? So far I've tried Valdani, King Tut and Sulkey. The invisible thread that's working great is Coats and Clark -- the cheapest kind possible because I've been going through miles of the stuff.

Any help?

Sunny

Reply to
Sunny
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One maybe silly question- did you have your presser foot down when adjusting the top tension? Many machines won't change the setting when you move the tension dial if the foot is up. Other than that have you tried different threads in the bobbin? Some times I need a lighter weight thread in the bobbin than the top thread.

Hope you find out what will work.... and why are you awake and quilting so late/early, young lady? VBG

Leslie & The Furbabies in Insomnia, MO.

Reply to
Leslie& The Furbabies in MO.

You didn't indicate if you have done free motion quilting before, but it took me several months of practice to even get the hang of it....

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

Sunny, I'm wondering if it might be a bobbin tension problem. Have you checked to see if that wee little screw needs a tweak? Are you using a strong, sharp needle? What happens if you use invisible thread in the bobbin and the good stuff on top? And, yes. Using batik for a backing isn't easy - but you already knew that. Hang in there. One of us will figure this out. Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

Now, Irene, that makes me smile. Here you are 'my Hero' and you took months to get the hang of FM? You're kidding, right? Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

Sunny, if the top thread is hanging in little loops on the back of the quilt, while the bobbin thread is just sitting there, it sounds to me as though it's your top thread that's too loose. Have you tried tightening the top tension?

OTOH, I may have completely misunderstood what you wrote. If the top thread is making the loops on the top of the quilt, you may need to tighten the tension screw on your bobbin.

Can you make a sample quilt sandwich from the same batting and fabrics as you're using? Then you could do the troubleshooting on something other than the quilt itself.

I usually have the opposite problem from yours; I can quilt just fine with the "normal" threads, but the mono gives me fits. Good luck!

Reply to
Sandy

Sometimes using a different type of needle will solve the problem. And once, the only way it would work for me was to change the foot (from a big open MQ foot to the small darning foot).

If you sew just a straight l>Usually I do most if not all of my needle work before putting a

Reply to
Roberta

Sunny, the basic "rule" is that if the top thread is "hanging' on the back the top tension needs adjusting. If the bobbin thread is coming up to the top, the bobbin tension should be checked. But...... (you knew there had to be one didn't you???) This sounds like a combination of things. First, Superior Threads recommends a size 90/14 Topstitch needle for King Tut thread. (In fact, Bob, of Superior Threads, recommends topstitch needles for most all of their threads... in sizes from

12-18) King Tut is a heavier ("fatter") thread and the tensions generally need to be loosened, *both* top and bobbing for heavier thread. Also, check the stitch length. For this type of stitching, you may need to lengthen the stitch length. If you are free motion quilting, then there are other considerations . Remember that when you are sewing through more thicknesses, and (possibly??) a layer or two of fusible, that you may have some issues. Try keeping a bit of felt with Sewer's Aid or TriFlo on it handy. Frequently wipe down the needle with the solvent to keep it moving smoothly/evenly through the fabric. Also, (I am sure you have checked this one.......) make sure the pressure foot lever was UP when you threaded the machine, and that the thread is securely seated between the tension disks. (If you have a "beehive" style tension assembly, also make sure the check spring is engaged.)

Any more questions, please ask.

Pati, in Phx

Reply to
Pati, in Phx

Oh yes, Polly....it took me a while! I needed lots of practice as I'm very clutzy! :)

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

Ok, I've tried everything and I'm giving up on pretty thread for this one. For some reason I cannot make it work and now I have some tan Aurifil in the bobbin and monofiliment on top. Now my quilting is just fine, but not pretty as it would be with fun thread.

I've been FM quilting for a long time and have never had this problem before. I think it's got to be the weird combination of this quilt and the thread, which is pretty thick. Maybe I don't need showy thread on this. Ok, back to work.

Thanks for all the input. I did try a lot of the suggestions on a mock up sandwich. Problem is, it's impossible to mock up something like I'm working on. There is so much thread, glue, batting, fabric, did I say thread? and how about glue? .... It's pretty challenging.

I think if I had known then what I know now, I would have chosen the Janome 1600 Pro rather than the 6600. I love my 6600 with its pretty stitches and all the fun thing it can do. But for FM quilting I really need the 1600 or the Babylock that is the same basic machine. The Babylock has a better foot for FM than the Janome. Yes, I would have sacrificed the computer stuff, which is really wonderful, for a super fast and strong straight stitch. Now we know what Sunny is saving pennies for now. LOL

See ya Monday -- or Tuesday. And if you haven't seen Slumdog Millionaire, see it now. It's really a gorgeous and wonderful movie.

Sunny

Reply to
onetexsun

Sunny,

Did you try rethreading the top? It makes me think the thread wasn't properly engaged in the tension thingies.

Let us know how it goes.

Reply to
lenorel95

Perhaps you might consider looking to purchase a vintage Singer (or other brand) straight stitch only machine with a large harp and dropping feed like the 15-91. You'd be able to dedicate it just to FMQing, and use your Janome Pro for everything else. These great old machines can be had for a fraction of the cost of a new computerized model and make a great 2nd/spare machine!

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

I've tred ro warn everyone off the 6600. LOL Have you asked over on the Yahoo 6600 group? Someone there might be able to help. Taria

Reply to
Taria

I almost ruined a whole cloth quilt using Valdani! I ended up contacting the folks who sold it to me and they sent me a refund but that was not much help, even though it was appreciated. I was too far into the quilting to change thread at that point. So I contacted Valdani and was sent replacement thread that was just as bad as the original. The thread was full of what I think I called "slumps" but that's not the right word really. It was NOT a good quality thread at all and I swore then to never use Valdani again. I do have some here that I had thought about sending to Jill but I think that no one needs to put themselves through this aggravation. I need to hunt it down and make sure it gets in the trash where it belongs.

I have some Coats & Clark multi color cotton quilting thread that works well and have had good luck with the Sulky.

Judie

Reply to
Judie in Penfield NY

If the thread is a little thick it might help to use a needle with a bigger eye. So a metallic needle or maybe a topstitch needle. I've found that can help.

If it's really thick then maybe you need to put it in the bobbin and quilt from the back. This I haven't tried, mainly because I don't have a spare bobbin case to play with for tension. But it sounds like a neat technique. Or.... you could couch down the thick thread - I've done this with a tiny zigzag on top of 6 strands of embroidery floss. A little slow but works well.

Just some ideas.... Allison

Reply to
Allison

Judie, sadly I have 10 different colors of Valdani thread in the large cone size. I have to agree that the thread is the problem. I've changed thread entirely, no pretty variegated top or bottom, and everything's just fine. I will reserve this for thread painting and work that won't go all the way through to the back. Sigh.

Taria, I love the 6600. It's just not the beast I want for FM quilting. It pieces great and it's good for the quilting that I do with the big foot on -- mostly straight or just gently wavy lines. No complaints about what it does. Only this one tiny complaint about what it doesn't. I just want a bigger motor. But then don't we all.

Allison, I may end up doing just what you suggest with the couching. Sigh. Again. I will not buy Valdani thread again, even if it is on fabulous sale.

Sunny

Reply to
onetexsun

Sunny,

I'm sorry you're having this experience but almost relieved in a sick and twisted way. I had such a terrible time with the Valdani and supposedly it's one of the best. When I sat down and really looked at it, like feet and yards of it, I could see many many slubs and thicker and thinner parts. Since it's supposed to be hand painted or hand dyed or whatever, it must be like that when it's first spun (or however thread is manufactured). I still cringe every time I think of the quilt I made with the Valdani. It was a very special quilt for my oldest daughter and I made it from a preprinted queen sized whole cloth panel with a solid backing and batik binding. The thread was made with the colors in the batik. I used a wool batting I had gotten especially for this quilt so it would be warm enough for Tahoe. For me, it was a *lot* of money invested in this quilt and I was just so frustrated by this thread. Of course I made up a test sample but couldn't use the exact same fabric as was in the whole cloth panel. And didn't realize just how bad it was until I was pretty far along.

Best of luck to you on your project, keep us posted.

Judie

Reply to
Judie in Penfield NY

I think for machine quilting all the fuss and bother of a 6600 is overkill. Just a good size harp straight stitch machine works well. Almost all the companies make those now so there is a great selection. The 6600 does lots of neat stuff. I think (again) that the controller issue that has really made me dislike the 6600 is straightened out. I sure hope so. If thread is your issue you can hardly blame the machine. SOme machines are just fussy about some threads. Sometimes even a certain color can cause a problem in a thread that a machine generally gets along well with. Sometimes it is just a day to put everything aside and take a break with some cookies and a good book. You might be able to sell that thread on ebay if you can't use it. Rats. Taria

Reply to
Taria

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