Hi, I'm trying to make a jacket with a notched collar, from a Burda magazine (pattern 109 in January 2003). The instructions say to "build in some fullness at the lapel corners" and "build in extra fullness in the top collar". I'm not sure what this means: I wondered if it was dodgy translation - where the fullness is already in the pattern piece and the instruction is just telling me where to ease it in Or do I need to pad the thing in some way?
Thanks Kate
It's a terminology problem. What they mean is to allow for turn of the cloth. You want the undercollar to have slightly less material the the upper collar, thus the "fullness" in the uppercollar. There are three methods I know of to do this. I'm sure you already have a favorite method.
Debra
Lay the top collar piece on top of the under collar: Are they the same size? If the top collar is slightly larger, just ease it in. If it's the same size, smooch it in a tad so the cut edges are slightly inside those of the under collar when you sew it. This will add that tiny bit extra that means the seam will roll slightly to the under side when you turn it through.
This is about the only explanation I can think of. Their magazine instructions have always been a tad eccentric and NOT designed for the new sewer or the innocent... ;P Once you have taken the Enigma Factor out of their instructions, I find the Burda magazine patterns to work very well.
Thanks for that - the two pieces are the same size, so I'll give the smooching method a go.
You're welcome!
Where are you? I'm on top of the miserable wet North Downs in Kent, the storm-cloud of England! 1:40 pm and I have the lights on!
Melbourne. So it's coming up to summer. Hence January's Burda - the local library here has a large supply of them. cheers Kate
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