introducing new reader here

to

get a > gander at the book referred to, but could not get in. Message said I didn't > have clearance or permission, or similar message. Another person in this NG > apparently ahs this same book on his website, but no reference where that > site was. Am interested in looking at this book, I think, so am hoping to get > pointed in the right direction. > > third Q: refers to a particular type of grind on a bowl turning gouge. Ah, I > am in pretty near perfect woodturner's isolation here, folks, so will need a > more thorough background in bowl turning gouge technology, here, I think. My > tool set is limited so far, to a set of basic Craftsman turning tools a > couple of home-brew tools, and a hefty gouge I bought from a tool catalog > many years ago. Has a peculiar looking (to me, anyway) grind on its end - > intended for bowl work. I've had mixed results with it, and so will be > looking for a clue, again. >

Hi Tom, always glad to see a new name so welcome aboard. CA glue is crazy glue or Cyano Acrylate glue. Lots of different brand names but a quick search on Google will fill you in. I can't get into the book site either. Grinds on gouges there are lots of write ups and how to's along with pictures etc. Again do a Google for "gouge grind" and about 250 pages come up. hope this helps :-)

On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:26:30 -0500, Canchippy wrote (in message ):

thanks for the reply, Canchippy. Crazy glue... who'd a thunk? I use it on my own cuts, never considered woodturnings. heh. tom k.

tom koehler wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.frontiernet.net:

Welcome tom. I can't get into the website either, but I think Darrell Feltmate has the book on his website.

Darrell's website can probably answer most if not all of your questions. Regards, Hank

I agree with Hank, Darrell's website is a must.

You can check out a lot of different grinds (bowl grinds, mostly if I remember right) here:

Look in the upper left hand corner (not all the way up) , and you will see a line named "message boards". Click that one, and you will get another page that has three buttons on it listing the different areas of the forums. You will see TURNING there, and you can get the rest. The best thing about that site is the archives (just like here) are searchable, and you can get a ton of information on just about any aspect of turning with a few clicks.

Hope to see you here often.

Robert

There are several grinds for bowl turning gouges. Irish, Ellsworth, Fingernail, etc.

This is a complicated topic, and I'm not a real expert.

But it has to do with the way the grind is done, and the shape of the gouge.

Bowl gouges are deeper than spindle gouges.

Think of it this way.

For a roughing gouge, I place the gouge in a sharpening jig, and rotate it around the handle as an axis. This is the easiest grind for a bowl gouge.

If you were using a round nose scraper, the pivot point is not down the middle of the handle, but a point near the end of the scraper. That's a side-to-side pivot, instead of a rotate pivot.

In between, there are more complicated grinds. The fingernail grind is like the roughing gouge, but as you get near the end, you push the gouge up. So it pivots up and down.

In other grinds, the pivot point is off to the side. Imagine you stick a piece of wood perpendicular to the tool, and rotate on that point. This sort of grind needs a jig to be reproducible. Options are:

Ellsworth jig Wolverine Vari-Grind Tormek Gouge Jig Homemade jigs

The Ellsworth and Irish grinds need a jig. The advantages is the number of different ways you can use a single tool. I attended a local lecture, and I think he mentioned 7 different ways you can cut with such a grind. Normally one rides the bevel to prevent digging in. One variation includes holding the tool "upside down" and scraping with the edge (and only the edge) on the bowl.

These techniques are hard to learn from a book.

But these grinds are very personal. I have a Tormek system, and one recommendation is to use a standard grind, and using the Tormek features, slowly change a tool's profile so that is is more like a Ellsworth. Try it. That way you slowly get used to the new profile.

Here's one picture of a traditional and fingernail grind.

Here's more info In any case, you don't want to ruin your favorite tool. Experiment with different shapes, but I'd buy a new gouge for experimentation.

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 2:28:51 -0500, Hank wrote (in message ):

Thanks for your reply. I'll give the site a look. tom koehler

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 2:42:56 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote (in message ):

Thanks for your reply, Robert. I will check out the resources you have given here. tom koehler

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 13:18:47 -0500, Darrell Feltmate wrote (in message ):

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 7:25:46 -0500, Maxwell Lol wrote (in message ):

tom koehler

Hi Tom, Welcome. You Got a lot of replies to CA - So 'nuf said. I've turned on a SS for 20 plus years and although it has its limitations it's a good all round machine. I've turned green wood to its max diameter (15in + or -) The one thing that helped me was SS's speed reducer. It still wanted to dance but it was manageable(it ALMOST taught me to dance, but no luck) AS far as "grinds" are concerned find what you can comfortably work with. There are many different "grinds" touted by Different "Professionals" but they don't work for everybody. I bought a SS sharpening guide and it worked great. I'm now on a new lathe and trying to learn a new grind,but am seriously thinking to go back to the SS. Whatever you do have fun with your turning.

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 20:57:03 -0500, Ralph wrote (in message ):

Thanks, Ralph. Yeah, I have enough material to study now for awhile. Only bad thing is it will keep me out of the nasement for awhile. The good thing is it will arm me with new information to try out and practice. Yeah, I have the speed reducer, too, but there is enough shake in that setup that I have to pay close attention to the geometry of my work. I want to check out what kind of motor the SS has. If it is a brush type motor I should be able to come up with an electrical speed control that should work pretty good. If it is a split-phase motor, something a bit more sophisticated and expensive will be required to get rid of the add-on speed reducer setup. tom koehler

Tom.. As a long-time SS user, I'll advise something that you probably don't want to hear: Buy a Jet Mini to play with.. I'm on my 3rd or 4th lathe now, and really thought that the SS was a nice lathe until I spent $250 for the mini..

It's so quiet that I used to turn at 5 am and the family never heard it.. Lovely little (10" bowl max) lathe..quiet, very stable, etc.

I'm a professional turner now and still use the SS a lot, just not for a lathe... Can't beat in, IMO, for a drill press, especially in the horizontal setup, with the 12" sanding disk on the other end.. There's no other machine in my shop that I'd drill pen blanks and stuff on, and I love the routing capabilities on the beast.. I've been trying to wear out or kill the SS since 1981 and it just keeps roaring along..

mac

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On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:11:57 -0500, mac davis wrote (in message ):

Mac, thanks for your reply and information about the lathe, but my problem is that my shop space is so small that I had to decide what machinery I'd put in it. I had room for one machine only. Hence, the SS. I know it has limitations. Each of its various incarnations has limitations. Like me, it is not great at any one thing it does, but it serves my needs reasonably well at anything I ask of it, within its limitations. *sigh* Thanks, hey. tom koehler

Hello Tom,

Welcome to the incurable addiction we all call "Woodturning"... :-)

CA's as others have pointed is the abbreviated name for Cyanoacrylate Adhesives, aka "Super Glue." The more technical common name is alkyl

2-Cyanoacrylates. I wrote an in-depth article on CA's that you might like to peruse for more information:

I get the same error message at the link to the woodturning book. Perhaps the link has changed and the page has not been updated? There are numerous references to gouge grinds on the Internet. My website has several examples as well. One thing you will learn is that although there are "standardized" names for many different types of grinds, there can also be different names for the same grind. :-o For example, I have seen a traditional round nose scraper grind also called a full round, a bullnose, a fingernail and a complete round by various woodturners around the country. It's the same thing, but with different names. It can be a little confusing at first... Some newer tool grinds are slightly different from the "traditional" grinds, thus different names are used to distinguish them.

Bowl gouges are a great example, there are many different variations of a traditional Irish grind and lots of different names are used to classify the various differences. Some of the names relate to the same grind but are known by different names in different parts of the country. Others names do in fact relate to different designs in the shape of the grind. Irish ground bowl gouges can be referred to as lay back grind, swing back, swept back, drawn back, Ellsworth, wing back and my own "Texas Irish" grind to name a few.

It's enough to make your head spin... :-o To help you learn more, check out my website

where you can find more than 60 free original woodturning educational articles on various topics that will help you get up to speed. I also have a free monthly newsletter "Lathe Talk" that offers lots of tips and tricks to make woodturning easier and more enjoyable. There is a lot to learn in woodturning, but that's half the fun!

If I can ever help you, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and best wishes to you and yours!

On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 10:16:09 -0500, Steve Russell wrote (in message ):

snip some tex for brevity... Thanks for your reply, Steve. I have started studying your website, and am happy to find so much info there. Will check out the CA piece. I did find the wood turning book at the Gutenberg site and it is now safely tucked away in my 'puter. Am starting to do a bit more experimenting with some green wood turning exercises, using local birch I have good access to. Am going to try boiling up a couple of pieces, too, just to see what happens. I am keeping my projects small by most folks' standards. So far, I have done a small bowl, turned green and then dried in a small convection oven. Have the heat on at

150 deg.F. for about 15 minues, and then let the oven cool back to ambient. Cyle the oven off and on like this a few times each day, with the door open a bit, to let the moisture out. First bowl was dry in 2 days, some checking on the exposed end grain, but relatively minor. The beat goes on... tom koehler

Tom.. that's one of the beauties of the mini.. It's 24" long and weighs about 60 lbs.. You can keep it on a shelf and put it on a workmate or saw horse when you want to use it..

Mine's used mostly for a pen buffer now, and it's on a swing out shelf under a work table.. When the kids are here, we just set it up out in the carport on the workmate and let 'em make shavings..

mac

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