NEED HELP REMOVING FACEPLATE??

To install the faceplate, you just screw it onto the spindle. Beware that some lathes require a spacer (that looks like a washer) on the spindle first, to prevent the faceplate bottoming on the thread... It really shouldn't take much instruction to put a faceplate on, and most instruction books don't bother to tell you how...

OK, to take it off, you just put the wrench on the faceplate. Align the wrench roughly parallel to the ground. Take a chunk of 2x4 or other scrap wood and whack the wrench. The inertia of the spindle, belt and motor will help keep it relatively still while the whack on the wrench will provide an impact that will loosen the faceplate on the spindle, allowing it to be easily turned off. Of course, make sure the whack will loosen the faceplate, because if you whack it the wrong direction, it will be even harder to remove!

On one lathe I had, I had to squeeze the belt to help hold the spindle while doing this.

Many lathes don't have a spindle lock because it can cause more problems than it solves for inexperienced users, and adds cost to an inexpensive lathe.

--Rick

snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAMhotmail.com wrote:

Hi myxpykalix, You may have already been given a solution via email. If so, please share.

Posting query/advice/discussion here is often a help to others and provides an archived resource. Unless very private info is involved, it seems appropriate to: 'post here--answer here', so we all may benefit. Now off the soapbox. :)

I'm not sure about the Craftsman lathe as I haven't seen an exploded diagram, so my suggestions may be off base. but like the the instruction manual _maybe not moronic. If the lathe has no spindle locking provision, probably there is no way to index. If there is a threaded and exposed outboard spindle nose for a faceplate could you drill two holes in the faceplate rim 180 deg. apart to insert a holding pin? It might also be feasable to drill spaced holes for simple indexing.

Whatever the solution, I'm sure you will get that faceplate off & on the spindle with ease and give your new lathe a workout. Share the journey with all of us. Happy turning, Arch

Fortiter,

Try a strap wrench to hold the spindle while you use the wrench on the faceplate. Here is one that may or may not be heavy duty enough to do the job.

If you bought the Craftsman 15" Variable Speed, you may try this. Remove the screw that holds the plastic cover over the outboard side of the headstock. That will let the cover swing down exposing the pully area. Inside that cover is a little moveable arm painted red. That is the mechanism for engaging the indexing system. Rotate the faceplate very slowly while pull the little red arm over against the indexing plate. When you feel the pin slip into one of the holes on the indexing plate, the system will be locked in place. Now you may exert whatever pressure you need on the face plate to remove it. Be sure to disengage the indexing pin before you close the cover back up and turn the machine on. DAMHIKT

Ron Robinson East Texas

I am amazed that so many of you seem to accept the idea that locking the spindle for removal of the faceplate (or chuck) may require a bunch of fooling around. At the very least, the spindle should have flats, so a wrench can be applied. IMHO, every lathe should provide a simple method of removing threaded spindle accessories, without the need for strap wrenches or 2 x 4's.

One of my pet gripes about the Sears lathe with the geared headstock is that it does not permit the use of a knockout bar. You have to use a special nut, and you have to remember to have it in place BEFORE inserting anything into the spindle Morse taper.

BTW, I have a solution to THAT problem, so if you have a stuck spur drive, or whatever, feel free to ask.

a year ago in November I purchased the Sears 15 in lathe. I really liked the lathe til I started using it and found the banjo was only drilled on 1 side. I called the # listed for missing parts (not sears) and had the new banjo in 3 days. The owners manual showed the banjo drilled on both sides(tool rest post locking lever) I mounted my nova chuck, roughed out the bowl and started to remove the chuck and BINGO!!! What do I do to hold the spindle to remove the chuck? When all else fails I go to the instructions, Nada zilch. Call sears next day NOBODY knows what I am talking about. Call Parts & service same story. E mailed Mr Feltmate, only person I have heard to say good things about the lathe Was told to use the index locking pin. OK! Chuck was removed no sweat.Mounted blank on face plate roughed 0ut bowl go to remove same uh-uh this time the faceplat was very hard to remove called sears service desk Oklahoma city told them the problem and asked what & how didnt know told them IF I exerted to much pressure could damage lathe big time.Called every sears store in OK looking for someone that have Demos on the lathe looking for answers. Finally found someone in North Ok that said use the index locking pin. Yep broke the damn thing Returned the lathe same day went and bought a 14 in Delta iron bed 1440. You know I really liked the lathe but the biggest eye opener of all was the people I talked to that should have known how what when & where knew less than I and believe me I talked to a BUNCH of people. My suggestion? Take the darn thing back Regards & fare well Mick

Hi Leo, Also every lathe should have a hardened tool rest edge that tools can't dent, but they don't. Could roughened double nuts put on the outboard spindle nose provide a fixed flat for a wrench? BTW, can I inquire re your patented schizophrenic (split personality) removal nut as a friendly segue, (but not as a cause for action)? :) Arch

Fortiter,

Arch wrote: (clip) BTW, can I inquire re your patented schizophrenic (split personality) removal nut as a friendly segue, (but not as a cause for action)? :) ^^^^^^^^^^^ Arch, your warm humor is unparalleled, but, I can't tell whether "(but not a cause for action)" meant I should launch into a full description or drop the subject. If anybody actually has this problem, the solution is definitely NOT patented, so feel free to ask. Arch, I think it is remarkable that, with all the things you have read, written, and responded to on this newsgroup, you still remember my schizophrenic nuts.

I'm asking, I'm asking! I can't get a spur center out of the spindle taper of an old lathe. The danged spindle is solid and I'm leary of heating and pounding on the center. I bet I'm not the first or last turner with this problem. I vaguely remember that there is a dodge around it. Help anyone? Arch

Fortiter,

Arch- Here's a couple that worked for me, ymmv.

Take a nut that fits your spindle and carefully cut it in half thru the center -- do the same with a spacer block that has been drilled to spindle-diameter. Put the spacer and nut on the spindle threads- hold the spacer with rubber bands, and the split nut with some tape. Add a wrench that spans the two split halves of the nut (keeps them together) and start turning. The spacer helps prevent damage to the spur. I'd douse the spur and threads liberally with a penetrating lube for a few hours before hand.

Another method that is from UnkaVic's BiggaHamma Skool of fine craftsmanship involves the split nut, monkey wrench (spanner for those on the far side of the pond), a ball joint removal tool, and your very best and largest sledge. Put the nut in place, tape to hold and add wrench. Move the nut to appropriate location for the ball joint fork to fit comfortably. Find a sucker oops- volunteer- to hold the ball joint tool and wrench steady while you slam the bejeebers out of the ball joint tool. The nut acts as the base for the wedge of the tool to push the spur out. I've done this for some stubborn collets on a metal lathe back in the machinist days- worked well, but sent the collets across a very large shop floor and into the boss' office.

Hi, The Craftsman 15 inch was my first lathe. A question, did you put the removal nut or whatever it is called on before you put the faceplate on? That nut is a large nut you put on the spindle before you screw anything else on. Its purpose is to prevent what happened to you. You put one wrench on it and use another wrench to unscrew the faceplate, etc. If you didn't put that on first maybe try the index pin thing. I too liked my lathe but after a month of turning pine and cedar the motor pretty much self destructed and my experience with the Sears people mirrored yours, nice people but they don't know squat about their products. I returned the lathe, went to WoodCraft and got a Nova 3000. It's not perfect but the problems I have had with it have been handled by WoodCraft. Overall I have been very pleased with the combination of price and performance I get out of the Nova and its nice to know when you walk into a store like WoodCraft that you get good service and people that know chosen profession and the equipment they sell. Good luck, Guy

Old Toolkraft (Monkey Wards) that served as my first lathe had a half-thickness nut threaded on the headstock for this purpose, but it also had flats at the end of the thread to use a sheet metal "wrench" on. The half-thickness nuts have a particular name, but I can't recall it (CRS) at the moment. If you used them as jam nuts, should do the job.

Arch wrote: I'm asking, I'm asking

Victor Radin wrote: (clip) Take a nut that fits your spindle and carefully cut it in half thru the center -- do the same with a spacer block that has been drilled to spindle-diameter (clip) Add a wrench that spans the two split halves of the nut (keeps them together) and start turning (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arch, I believe that pretty well covers it. Only qurestion remaining is, "Who thought of it first/" Doesn't matter. It's in the public domain. But, I'm going to stop thinking of it as *my idea.*

How about a strategically drilled hole in the spindle and the addition of a bit of gunpowder? Just make sure it's not pointed at the boss's office or SWIMBO's kitchen. ;-)

Thanks for the info Vic. I'm still laughing. Please share some more pearls from "UnkaVic's Bigga Hamma" school with us graduates from time to time. Maybe a series from the Dean? :) Arch

Fortiter,

Hi Leo, I looked up a past thread re this same subject. Not to split hairs (or nuts), but you are allowed to think the idea to upgrade the split nuts to a tool was yours. I don't recall just what you did tho? Arch

Fortiter,

Arch wrote: (clip) you are allowed to think the idea to upgrade the split nuts to a tool was yours. I don't recall just what you did tho? ^^^^^^^^^^ Thanks for asking. I put the nut into the jaws of a pair of Vise-grip pliers, and welded the jaws to it. I then sawed the nut in half. It is then possible to slip the opened tool behind the stuck spur drive, and then close it. This is not worthwhile unless you expect to use the tool a number of times. The one I made for my friend was for his Sears lathe. He had forgotten to install the removal nut on the spindle, and was "stuck." I figured, correctly, it turns out, that he wss going to forget again and again.

At that time I was using a Jet 1236, on which I had a setup for a vacuum chuck. This included a special handwheel for connecting the vacuum--this got in the way of my knockout bar. Rather than remove the handwheel, I made myself one of these removal tools, and found it to be very handy.

The tool can also be made by welding the nut to the jaws of a monkey wrench. If you do this, by the way, you may have to add a washer (also split), with a hole small enough to engage the back of our spur drive.