Well it seemed like a good idea...

What was the mixture LDD/water that you used in the "brush on" test?

Bob Edwards San Antonio

ed snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Bob Edwards) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

That is the suggested mix but Leif's procedure calls for immersing the pieces in LDD.

What have you done with your test groups now? Still letting them sit and going to record the changes again later or are you working them?

Now you're testing the effects of freezing AND the LDD. You won't know which is causing what. That group is dead for testing now. Please keep us informed of future results and procedures as you get them.

- Andrew

Good deal, Razz! As stated above there are a few gaps in the method, but at least someone is trying to develop some new methods. I must admit that I have tried the same method, but didn't brush on nearly as many coats as you did. Needless to say, it may have delayed the cracking a bit, but crack they did. Since that time, I have recommended using the usual endcote/endseal for longer term storage of green wood that you can't get immediately to. Then use the LDD vat method while turning. It helps with both "dry" wood and green wood. My reason for using LDD was to be able to start turning immediately, instead of waiting six months to a year for the wood to season/dry. Also, instead of using large quantities of paper bags, propane, electricity.

Leif

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:

I have looked at doing some anchorseal but because of expense and the fact I'm not usually there as the trees are felled, I've held off. I'm just getting back into turning after about a 10 year break, so working all green woods right now. From what I've read the anchorseal needs to be applied immediately after cutting and their website statistics say it only increases usable wood 6 - 9% if done right away. Doesn't sound like very good odds for the expense. SWMBO's sister and brother in-law have a tree service, so I'm getting choice from about a half - acre of 10' tree trunks that haven't been split yet. He is setting aside burls and crotches for me to pick up, since they are more trouble than they are worth for fire wood splitting, he says... fine with me set em aside I'll gladly take em off his hands.

Razz

Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose uncracked wood further in. With a tree service relative in the family, those burls and crotches sound very good to me!

do you mean leave them whole, or split em down the middle or what?(I'm trying to find the best way to get more wood out of the bits I have, I had some really beautiful stuff with purple and green streaks, but I got little out of two crotches and a longer branch, the whole lot of it got big splits all the way down. and it was drying outside in cool weather.

Red: I am talking about any log from three feet in length up to ten feet. The splitting of smaller pieces and removal of the pith is an archaic method promulgated by antirevolutionary elements. I understand that some success is enjoyed in that technique. *G*

so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole? in article snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com, Leif Thorvaldson at snipped-for-privacy@mashell.com wrote on 1/28/04 4:11 PM:

If they are longer than the log is wide, then you can leave it whole. For a

- Andrew

mine were at least 4-5 times longer then wide, and the split went all the way from the outside to the center. it looked pretty, but I didnt like the idea of giving it that much invitation to go flying around the shop.

Did the split go all the way down the length of the log?? Generally, the splits only travel about 3 - 4 inches and that end can be lopped off. I don't like quartering or even halving logs as it limits what I might want to do with it later. You are right not to want to turn that 3 - 4 inch end piece, unless you can use the halves.

Hi Reyd

Reyd go back to Darrel Feltmates web side and look around some more, Darrel has some real (no BS) good answers to your questions, as for me if I was not able to turn the wood right away, I would leave it as large as possible (how strong are you ? ) seal the ends with whatever I have on hand (latex paint, wax, plastic bag etc.) and then turn it as soon as possible, don't try to dry it in the round, IT WILL SPLIT !!. Have fun and take care !! Leo Van Der Loo

Reyd Dorakeen wrote:

all the way, close to 2 feet. and they were wide cracks, maybe 4 mm accross.

I consult his page often, usually after something goes wrong with whatever im doing:)

Yeah, I have had similar cracking on 24 inch rounds, but on slightly larger ones. Yours according to you are 4 to 5 times the diameter which would give you a 4.5 or 6 inch in diameter piece. Now that I can understand a longitudinal crack along the entire length. Most of my rounds are 8 to 24 inches in diameter.

splits/cracks/checks

END CHECKS are just that, openings created when the outside of the end grain dries and contracts, making openings. These rarely extend more than a couple inches into the piece from either uncovered end, less if you protect them. When I lop off a chunk to turn, I pull up the saw shavings, and press a cutoff round onto the end. If I'm back in a day or so, no problem, as long as the end is not in direct sun.

RADIAL CHECKS, the kind that run from the outside to the pith, are often full-length. They are best avoided by keeping the bark on the log, and the log out of the sun, to keep the exterior from drying at a more rapid rate than the interior can compensate for. In my world, though I'm an amateur, if the log is left on its side against the damp earth, it will begin to decay. If it is shielded from the sun by a tarp or an old piece of carpet and rolled periodically, it will develop color from the decay which is fostered by the higher moisture content where in contact with the ground. If the log is raised above the ground on skids, where it will gain no moisture from it, there will be a readjustment of the moisture downward due to gravity which may cause brief decay and color , or be prevented by rolling the log periodically.

I have many logs in both states right now, all in suspended animation, as they are frozen. The best will be rotated next spring and summer until the decay has produced a figure of desired density, or used clear. The worst will keep us warm year after next, being replaced on the deck with another ten full cords of fresh to examine, select, protect and (GROAN) split.