new here, need help

Can this really be true? When the

Yes

Dear Nelson

Make a trial vest of muslin (cheap material), and pin out the gap from the outside (right side). True the seam, as it won't be smooth after this correction. Now, re-draw the pattern piece with the gap removed. You may have to slash all the way to the opposite side of the pattern to get it flat, but then it will fit.

Teri

This link:

altering a princess seam pattern for full bust adjustment. The page's author credits "Fit for Real People" by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto, which is a great resource for dealing with all kinds of fitting challenges. You might find a copy in your library. Doreen in Alabama

~Hi, I tried a group before and felt very left out, but I'm giving it a ~go again! I have been sewing more more years than I would care to ~admit and my body has grown in more ways than I would care to admit! I ~have problems with fit-especially in the bussom. I recently read that ~all patterns are made to fit a Bcup. Can this really be true? When the ~pattern size chart says 46" bust measurement is there really someone ~out there with a 46"Bcup?? ~I am trying to make a princes seam vest and I have a big gap at the ~front of the arm hole. I have tried what should be my size and a size ~larger- still the gap. Any advice? ~thank you in advance.

Yes there are people with a 46B cup. The cup size is determined by the difference in measurements taken from around the fullest portion of the breasts and from around the chest area below the breasts. A difference in 2" is a B cup. It is possible to have a wider torso (large frame) and a small bust (the actual cup size).

I understand fitting problems when you do not fit the mold. I have come to know which brands off the rack will fit my frame. I have also learned that it is best to adjust the pattern pieces to my body before I actually stitch them out. You will need help with this. Put on a close fitting t-shirt. Pin the darts on the pattern as if you had stitched them and then have your friend pin the pattern piece to your shoulders and side. Although it will only cover half your front, you can see how the pattern will fit. You can then make adjustment in the pattern piece before you cut out the garment. You can also first cut out the garment from an old sheet to see if you altered the pattern correctly and make any further adjustments as required before you start stitching on the real fabric (very good advice if you are using expensive fabric). Once you have altered and test sewn a few different patterns, you will have gotten better at it and won't have to test sew them before cutting anymore.

Here is a link with good fitting instructions.

link:

> illustrates altering a princess seam pattern for full bust adjustment.> The page's author credits "Fit for Real People" by Pati Palmer & Marta> Alto, which is a great resource for dealing with all kinds of fitting> challenges. You might find a copy in your library.>

The directions at this link are nice for altering a princess seam pattern with a high neckline. With a lower neckline, a slightly different technique is usually required. I do the upper pattern slash on the center front piece diagonally upwards, towards the center. I then separate the desired amount at the outer side seamline, while leaving the neckline seamline shorter. This avoids those neckline gaps.

--Betsy