Re: Does your dog do this?

HOWEDY liea,

> > > Michael Plumridge wrote: > > > > > > When Mollie and I play, sometimes she gets > > > a little bit too rough and nips me hard enough > > > to make me wince. > > > > Does your dog do anything like this? > > > > No. None of my dogs has been nippers. > > Right. Your dog flat HOWET attacks your only > friend and any child nearbye. > > > The closest Cubbe gets is when she gets the zoomies. > > Or when she's attacking your only friend or any > child nearbye. > > > She might come close to an ankle. > > That so, liea? > > > --Lia > > You're a liar, a dog abuser, and a MENTAL CASE. > > Here's your dog Cubbe attackin your only friend and > trying to attack a couple kids: > > "It Was Horrible! I Let Cubbe Out In The Backyard With > Her Usual ZAP Collar - The 10 Year Old Child Went To > Give Cubbe A Hug She Gave A Snarl-Snap Cubbe Got > Out In The Neighborhood Leashless From: > > Julia F N Altshuler ( snipped-for-privacy@dc.seflin.org) > Subject: 1 step forward, 2 steps back > Date: 2001-01-07 19:28:05 PST > > Cubbe got out in the neighborhood leashless for the first time > in roughly 2 years. The first few times were when we first got > her before she'd had any training and before we got the > electric fence to reinforce the physical one. > > It was horrible. She paid us no attention, ignored clickers > and treats and calls. Make that, it was horrible for us. She > had a blast running free and chasing whatever she wanted. For > us it was 45 minutes of sheer terror as we tried to catch her. > Luckily there wasn't too much traffic yesterday morning. It > had snowed, and the streets weren't quite clear yet. Jim > finally caught her when she was preoccupied with her head down > a hole. > > For 2 years I've been giving her a daily long walk in the > neighborhood. She now walks pretty nicely on a leash. She gets > daily indoor clicker training sessions. She has perfect > recalls in the house. She gets intermittent treats for those > recalls. She gets plenty of time to run free in the backyard. > Her recalls are less reliable there, but I've been working on > them. I haven't been as good about introducing the variable > reinforcement there, but I have been good about making sure > that she's never tricked into coming into the house when she'd > rather be outside. I always call her, give her a treat or > praise and let her go again. > > So I haven't been a perfect dog trainer, but I don't think I'm > a terrible one. I say that because I'm about to ask y'all for > some help in correcting my mistakes, and while I don't mind > criticism for past mistakes, I am hoping you'll concentrate on > what I should do now. > > Yesterday morning Cubbe had had some nice backyard time. I'd > gotten her into the house and was preparing to leave when she > escaped straight through the front door and right in front of > our noses. She was still wearing the zap collar, but the > battery was low. She gave a small yip when she went over the > wire, and the chase ensued. > > We were careful not to scold her once she was caught. > > Today I let her out in the backyard with her usual zap collar > now with a fresh battery. She was waiting by the backdoor to > come in when I went to call her. From her excited behavior, I > could tell that she fully expected to be let out the front > door again so she could have another fun romp in the > neighborhood. I'm so filled with anxiety from yesterday's > escapade that I keep checking for her every time I open the > door. > > Later in the afternoon, she was much worse > about coming when called even from the backyard. > > My specific questions: > > How do I teach recalls when she so clearly knows > when she's in a confined space and when she isn't? > > She normally only wears the zap collar when she's in the > backyard because the wire goes around the house and could zap > her when she's near certain windows inside. If I let her get > zapped at the front door with the zap collar, can I still take > the zap collar off and walk her out the front door with her > leash on? I don't want her to become afraid of the front door. > > What's the best emergency procedure if, god forbid, it should > happen again? > > Might Cubbe be ready for harsher training techniques? By this > I mean, I've been using clicker and treats for Cubbe because > she so obviously freaked when we used leash corrections and > scoldings when we first got her. > > I know this is a hard subject to bring up without starting the > whole cruelty thread again so I'll state my opinion once and > won't defend it further: any method can be cruel for some > dogs. > > Even the slightest punishment was wrong for Cubbe at the > beginning, but we've come a long way since then. She trusts > us now as I mentioned in a recent post. Point is, she's been > rewarded for coming, but she's never been punished, even in > the mildest way, for not coming. > > Is it time for that? > > What might I look for to tell? > > Last night we had friends over for dinner with their 3 > daughters ages 14, 10 and 7. The girls loved Cubbe and were > having a blast clicker training her. I was impressed with how > quickly they caught on and how little correction they needed > to be consistent with the clicks and treats. Cubbe was fine > with the children; she always has been. Just as they were > getting ready to go, the 10 year old went to give Cubbe a hug. > Cubbe must have felt threatened and confined because she gave > a snarl-snap. > > I was right there, and without thinking I quickly yelled, > turned Cubbe over on her back, got in the face and let her > know that no snarling is allowed. The girl wasn't frightened > at all, and her parents who were also right there hadn't > realized what had happened. I then asked the snarlee to rub > Cubbe's belly further to reinforce that Cubbe is the > submissive one in that relationship. I let Cubbe up and all > was fine. > > I suppose that's another issue, but I bring it up as part of > wondering if Cubbe should be trained with punishments now. > Like I said, I did that without thinking, and now I think it > was the right thing to do. So how do I apply this to dealing > with Cubbe the escapee? > > --Lia > > > > > I need help deciding if I have a real problem with Cubbe > > that needs immediate attention or if I'm imagining trouble > > where there is none. > > > Here's what happened last April the way I described it to > > a friend at the time: > > > I'm worried about Cubbe. Or rather, I'm kicking myself for > > doing something stupid. Ellie has been over many times and > > has always gotten along great with Cubbe. Cubbe is always > > at the door when I let Ellie in. > > > She's barky-protective but then stops barking once Ellie is > > inside. She's never shown any real aggression. The other > > night Ellie and I went out together to run an errand. > > > Ellie was coming in the house with packages so I came in > > first and put Cubbe in the bedroom with Jim so Ellie could > > get through the door more easily. I could hear Cubbe > > barking. Once Ellie was inside, I opened the bedroom door > > for Cubbe. She ran out to attack the intruder. Ellie was > > trying to be friendly. > > > Ellie put a tooth in Ellie's finger. Granted the resulting > > scratch was no worse than the way my cuticles bleed when > > they get dry and I don't rub lotion into them every night, > > but Ellie was understandably scared. > > > Jim ran out and got control of Cubbe right away. I got > > Ellie some alcohol and a bandage. The scary thing is that, > > even though the damage is minor, it does qualify as a bite > > since Cubbe did mean to do it. I guess I should just learn > > from it and never let Cubbe greet someone like that again, > > but I'm horribly torn up. > > > I've said that I would never keep an aggressive dog. Now > > the whole issue is so complicated. Cubbe is great even > > with kids when we meet them in the neighborhood. > > Since then I've been careful not to do anything like that. > > Then Halloween night Cubbe spent most of the night in the > > computer room with Jim while I answered the door. She did > > bark each time she heard the doorbell ring. We did nothing > > to discourage that. We want her to be barky protective so > > it made sense for her to bark when she heard people in the > > neighborhood, especially at night. Later in the evening, > > Jim put Cubbe on a leash and was hanging out with her in the > > front hall while I still got the door. One of the first > > people to come to the door once she was out of the computer > > room was our neighbor Nicky. > > > I think Nicky is 11 now. He's known Cubbe since we got her > > 4 years ago, has always liked her, petted her and asked to > > come on walks. Nick lifted his mask on the porch so I'd > > know who it was. Then I invited him into the hall to pet > > Cubbe. > > > Cubbe snarled and sort of air snapped at him. Of course > > Jim was right there so no damage was done. Nick didn't > > even have to draw his hand away, and he didn't get scared. > > Nothing scares that boy. > > > I don't like this. Twice now Cubbe has been overly > > protective-aggressive when people have entered the house. > > Both times they've been people she knows and should like. > > She's wonderfully nice to people on walks. We don't have > > guests over too often so I can't comment if it's a growing > > thing or not. > > > Comments please. Is this a major growing aggression > > problem? > > > I'd guess it's territoriality about the house and yard. > > What do I do about it? > > > I usually put Cubbe on a leash when friends come over > > and then walk her outside while the friend gets out of > > her car, and then we walk in together. > > > She'll still bark when they're in the house and then > > calm down. Is that a good idea? Should I be > > doing something more to make sure this doesn't escalate? > > --Lia > > > >
Reply to
LeeAnne
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Dear Lia,

PMFJI

What sort of dog is Cubbe? What are you feeding? Is it male/female/ neutered?

You sound panicky. First stop. Calm down. Decide what behaviour you want. Then train for it. Remember a dog does not speak fluent monkey and you do not speak fluent canine. Your main problems are with who's boss. You are not. This needs dealing with pronto, or you are going to have major problems.

Start with that. Then we can deal with basic obedience matters. Ditch the clicker (imho, they are OK but unless everyone who ever deals with your dog has one, pretty unreliable.)

Teach your dog a Down on command. Then a stay. When you open a door, have dog in a down behind you. Open the door wide. Dog can see out, visitor can see in. Both are under control. If it is a "l'il old lady" she is not scared because dog is under control. If it is the local axe-murderer, he thinks: if this dog is doing this, what else can he do? You know dog is safe, but in position to protect, if needed. You can then control the situation with confidence.

Dog understands your confidence and will therefore allow you, as pack leader, to control the situation. Dog is back-up, he is not needed to muscle in, unless asked, therefore he is relaxed. When everybody is relaxed, the situation is safe. When you drag the dog from the door, he thinks he is needed to protect you. If you remove him from potential "situations" he a) does not learn how to react appropriately and b) can sense your unease, and will try to take over on occasions when he is present.

Do you see what I mean? I hope that meakes sense.

That's a start. I can help you with the rest if you want. But mebbe we should talk off group. I can recommend you some good books, too.

BTW I have trained dogs, of many different breeds, for about 25 years, so have _some_ experience, and qualifications. I do not like methods that harm or hurt. I teach motivational methods based on psycholgy and behaviour management. I am not remotely interested in prong collars or other harsh methods. I was taught my people (brilliant, imo) who proved they were not necessary. If I can help you, I would be delighted to try. (and talk woofit. I miss that at the moment)

Try it, talk to me.

Nel (Gadget Queen) Sartor Resartus

Reply to
Eyren

All excellent advice, but please be careful. If Cubbe continues to snap & snarl, you could be in for some nightmares. Been there, done that, unfortunately. Contact me privately if interested.

-- Royce A day hemmed in prayer is less likely to unravel.

Reply to
Royce

The dog groups have been plagued with a particular virulent troll for many years. It is irrational, makes no sense, cannot be reasoned with, posts constantly (literally 100s of messages a day most of which are repeats). It is annoying, hateful, spewing. Folks have tried arguing with it, being kind to it, reporting it to ISPs, contacting local law enforcement agencies. Nothing works except ignoring it which the folks on the dog groups have learned to do successfully. So it began changing its name and crossposting. I wouldn't presume to assign motives to something that doesn't respond to normally accepted rational human responses, but it seems to crave attention. In the past, whenever it crossposted to unrelated groups (it has this thing about dogs), people have recognized almost immediately that it wasn't making sense. Most recently, it has taken to crossposting to groups where the regulars would recognized a familiar name, in this case, mine. Apparently that gets a response.

Please, folks, use some common sense. The post that was reposted here was from several years ago. Since then, I've solved the problem. Even if I hadn't, I wouldn't come to my quilting, gardening and cooking buddies for a specific and ongoing problem with my dog. My dog group hears from me regularly about training techniques and progress and setbacks. They're interested. My quilting buddies are interested in what quilts I'm working on. My cooking buddies like to hear about new recipes. Sure I get off-topic from time to time (who doesn't), but in general, I try to stay with the subject.

Please don't fall for the troll's tactics. If you have any doubts about what I'm saying, do a google search on my name-- Julia Altshuler and Julia FN Altshuler. You'll find that for every one of my posts, there are about 20 reposts and nonsensible answers from the same troll. This goes back to 1998. (I'm not the only target by far. Every regular on the dog groups put up with the same.)

Here's the canned post on the subject written by me with input from the regulars on the dog group. I post it whenever I see answers to the troll. (I have the troll itself killfiled so I never see its posts unless someone who is not in my killfile repeats them.)

--Lia

This message is posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior (r.p.d.b.) regularly and occasionally to other newsgroups including alt.animals.dog, rec.pets.dogs.rescue, alt.pets.dog, and rec.pets.dogs.misc. These are unmoderated groups meaning that no one checks the messages to make sure they're on-topic, civil or sensible before they go through.

The purpose of this occasional posting is to give information about the newsgroup so that discussion about the newsgroup itself is cut down and discussion about dogs increases.

Like so many usenet groups, this group has people who post annoyingly and constantly, people who post angry and abusive messages, people who post to irritate others. It's up to individuals to decide which posters bother them.

Here are some guidelines that many people follow to make this newsgroup pleasant and informative:

  1. Use your killfile. A killfile (or filter) makes invisible posts by any particular person or with any particular words in the subject line. The posts are still there, but they don't show up on the screen of the person using the killfile. Look at
    formatting link
    for instructions. Ortry:
    formatting link

  1. Don't make more noise. The only thing more annoying than a troll is an otherwise rational person arguing with or about a troll. That's known as feeding the trolls. Please don't feed the trolls. It really is insane to attempt rational discussion with the insane.

  2. Want to exercise your right to free speech and argue about or with trolls anyway? Put "ninnyboy" in the subject line. That way the people who want to join the fracas can, and those who don't can opt out by killfiling "ninnyboy." If you don't do this, expect to be killfiled yourself. [Jerry], with the brackets is also a recognized signal.

  1. Figured out that arguing with trolls is useless but still want to talk about trolls by referring to them in the third person? Put "ninnyboy" in the subject line then too. That subject is boring too.

  2. Trim quoted posts to include only the part you're responding to. Quoting an entire long post in order to respond to only a small piece of it is annoying. Again, if you don't do this, expect to be killfiled.

  1. Understand Candace. Candace is an automatic program that answers troll posts automatically, repetititively and relentlessly. Most of us find these posts boring after a short while and killfile it too. That's O.K. You can't hurt its feelings.

  2. Show no fear. Have a question or need to admit that you've made errors in dog training in the past? This is still a good place to come for (often contradictory) advice. Use your own judgment to decide what advice to follow and what not to. No harm can come to you even if people vehemently disagree, call you names or repost your old messages.

  1. Label off-topic threads as "OT." A label helps people decide what to read and what not to.

  2. Check the F.A.Q. for answers to frequent non-complicated questions.

  1. Don't post pictures. This is not a binary newsgroup. That's plain text only, no HTML, no attachments. If you'd like, post a pointer to a website with pictures on it.

  2. Don't crosspost. It's bad enough when someone posts something dog related to all the groups having to do with dogs. It's worse when totally unrelated groups get tossed in the mix. Feel like you absolutely have to jump in on something that's been crossposted to unrelated groups? Erase the extraneous ones when you answer.
Reply to
Julia Altshuler

Julia,

I for one, read the entire thing, then double checked to see when you had posted your message/question. It seems that we are getting mroe than our fair share of trolls lately...any chance they could be related in any way?? Ah well, from your other messages, I feel that I "know" you, so I'm not going to bother responding to the dog post. Just wanted to write to let you know that those of us at rctq (since that is the only group that I can speak for) know the real you and wouldn't take this nonsensical gibberish to heart.

Larisa

Julia Altshuler wrote:

Reply to
CNYstitcher

The same troll invaded rec.woodworking a few months ago. Many of the regulars there began using NewsProxy

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to filter posts. This program allows you to drop crossposts based on the number of groups in the crosspost, or specific groups (e.g. you can tell it to drop anything that's posted both to rec.food.cooking and rec.pets.dogs.behavior).

Do a Google search on rec.woodworking for posts in late May and early June, looking for the keywords nfilter and newsproxy for more information.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller

Good idea, doug. You can't hurt wood.

troll for many

This program

the crosspost,

early June,

information.

Reply to
The Puppy Wizard

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