Big hunk O Ebony!

Last night while at my local Rockler, I found some new chunks of ebony that they just put out on the floor. I bought a piece about 6x8x12" for 35 bucks. I got it home and proceded to cut it into 4 bowl blanks about 6x6x4". After the first cut I went for the face mask, seeing how nasty they stuff was. It started burning my nose and eyes.

I have one bowl started on the lathe and it looks like pretty interesting wood. I think it will make nice bowls. I am curious however, what is the best way to finish this stuff. I have never worked with such dark wood on a lathe. What is the best way to bring out the highlights without darkening it much more then it already is? I was planning on using shellac and wax. Are there any other suggestions? What has the experience been with this stuff?

Leslie

Reply to
Leslie Gossett
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I haven't made any bowls - yet - but I have turned a lot of Ebony into very expensive sawdust in my day

for your application wax alone should do just fine - I haven't tried shelac, but I think you might encounter problems because Ebony is so oily

Ebony will polish like glass wax it and buff it and it should look like a black diamond

HTH Dale

Reply to
dalecue

Turn it. Sand It. Use a buffing system on it like beal. By the way thats a good price for Ebony.

Reply to
Ralph Fedorak

By the way

is it ever - esp for The Rocklers according to my trusty Windows calculator that come in at about $8.75/bd. ft. or around 10% of what I would expect to pay for Gaboon from them

Leslie - did they say what kinf of ebony and/or where it came from

Dale

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Reply to
dalecue

Sharp tools (should be standard anyway), sand with wet/dry to 1000, then I use a 5-0 steel wool equivilent sanding pad to buff and finish sand the wood. While it's warm from buffing I run pure beeswax on the piece so it allows the wax to melt in, and then buff that out with a chamois. Brings a glass-smooth finish and glow to almost any oily hardwood.

Reply to
Victor Radin

No, I didn't think to ask. But I will next time I am there. Which is often.

I thought it was a good price too and they still have several more pieces.

Reply to
Leslie Gossett

Yea, I found frequent sharpening a necessity with this stuff. I will do the wax treatment on it. I was unsure about doing anything else with it. Now I am anxious to see how it turns out!

Reply to
Leslie Gossett

I'll second this. It's like plastic at those grits - keep going up in grits, it keeps getting shinier. I put a light coat of danish oil on mine - wipe on, wipe off.

I also noticed that ebony responds well to scrapers, in case you need to know.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

that is a good price! do be careful...Ebony has a tendency to crack, sometimes after weeks or months. I have one box lid with an inlay that I need to repair now....and it waited 6 months to surprise me. You can 'almost' hide cracks by sanding it's own dust into it with superglue, but I think I will use most Ebony for smaller, thinner projects where this happens less often. African Blackwood (of the Rosewood family) is much more stable than Ebony ...if you can find it.

Reply to
Bill Day

I plan on going back tomorrow. If they have any left, I will buy them and offer them on here to purchase.

I did finish one bowl and it did turn out very nice. Thanks all for the suggestions.

Leslie

Reply to
Leslie Gossett

after you have sanded it very well try some white rouge on a piece of soft rag. flannel works well. you can polish ebony till its almost like a black mirror. skeez

Reply to
skeezics

Micro mesh all the way up to 12000 grit. Than HUT PPP.

Reply to
Passerby

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