scary experience with first project

Probably a bad idea, there is a reason that bowl gouges are "long and strong".

No they aren't, HF are at least as good, buy some Crown gouges, one large bowl gouge at the very least.

Find the local woodturning group in your area and join it. There are a bunch of people who will be happy to help you up your learning curve. Try looking here:

Since you didn't say where you are, you'll have to look it up bystate on that page, otherwise somebody would probably have toldyou exactly how to get ahold of some help.Dave in Fairfax

Mike,

Buy yourself a 3/8" bowl gouge before you kill yourself and/or destroy your bowl. There is hardly any substitute for a bowl gouge. Sear's/ Craftsman tools are okay to start with, but I like your theory about buying the best tools you can afford.

Barry

http://69.141.184.37/home/galleryalbum/view_album.php?set_albumName=album01> I did pick up some wood (see an earlier post) from a neighbors trash,> but have yet to use it. I am making the bowl from maple and oak> purchased at HD.================= That is part of your problem, kiln dried wood is hard to turn. ==========================

================ Try the High Speed steel set from Harbor Freight. Last time I checked, they were around $30.00; excellent value. ========================

======================= Relax! you're forcing the cut, and you should be letting the wood come to the tool. If you turn the lathe off, and rotate the piece by hand, you can see how the tool is cutting, or how you need to move it so it will cut. Be sure the tool is SHARP! ===================

Thanks for the info!

miked

Amen. Sharp being defined as what cuts and is sturdy enough to take the heat of cutting under power.

Also a great way to study the dynamics of the edge. Donning my flak jacket - an edge is an edge. The piece looks shallow enough to work with shorter handle gouges, as you can get your toolrest right up close. "Bowl" gouges have heavier section for longer reach in those places you can't keep the rest close, and are ground at so many different profiles that it's fair to say there is no "right" one. They also have longer handles to give you back some leverage, and can be difficult to maneuver when cutting over the lathe bed.

There is a right way to present an edge to avoid a catch. That is with the deepest point of the cutting arc exiting the piece. It's a bit easier with pictures, so you might take a look at

are the "wrong" gouges for the job, but it's only the part of the toolprofile in contact with the wood that makes the cut, and you can see fromthe resin how the bevel stays in contact , and contact only, no pushing in,only along, the cut. As someone mentioned here, reduce to A-B-C. Anchorthe tool on the rest, steady the Bevel on the work, and start the Cut bymoving the handle. Before your piece is circular you have to cut air andwood alternately, so the Anchor is extremely important. Take a look at some of the inside cuts on the pages as well, and look at the shavings produced. You will not get the same length or composition initially, because your piece is built up, and the grain angles are not consistent, but with a circular piece and a good presentation, you should make great wads of excelsior with the proper angle. Look at the shaving, it can have one ragged edge, indicative of scraping, but the trailing edge should be smooth, indicating a cut across the fibers.

It's my belief that once you know the dynamics of the edge, you can work with almost any angle grind. Get some inexpensive gouges if you like, but you'll buy twice.

Mike,

Go to a library, a Borders, or Barnes & Noble and get an introductory text. I would recommend either Darlow (The Fundamentals of Woodturning) or Raffan (Turning Wood), in that order. I think Darlow is a bit better for beginning and Raffan once one has a bit of experience. If you can find someone that teaches woodturning (HS shop teacher) you might ask for some advice. I would shy away from advice from "clubbies". While well meaning, they sometimes do not have the best techniques, sometimes pass on their bad habits, and often look to the new tool, grind, or gizmo to solve a problem. Till you get a chance to do some reading I would offer 2 suggestions. First, start with the bevel (the surface that is ground) riding on the heel (part farthest from the cutting edge) and tip it (slowly) into the work till it just starts cutting. Second, listen carefully. Once the work is trued the edge when cutting cleanly will sound like a hiss. If the sound changes you can hear it, something is wrong, and you can adjust before getting a catch. But get a book and read.