Ping: LEIF - - re: LDD

May 31, 2005 26 Replies

Martin, to me this thread is a debate in the sense that it is a discussion and not an experiment, with defenses by reasoning, of differing theories of how LDD works and differing approaches of how to induce or deduce their validity.... Say what, Arch? I dunno what I said. :)

Rick, Many thanks for your thoughtful posts. I can understand their frustration when people say that Leif's/Kent's or anyone's LDD method doesn't work after not _really_ using the method.

I agree that we should feel free to explore any variations that seem to work. Ex. I believe that NIP and LDD are a special case. Slathering whole NIP log sections or rough turnings with any brand of LDD and storing them out of the sun prevents rot & cracks, lubricates the wood, and doesn't materially affect lacquer, oil, wax or varnish finishes.These effects last for years...or probably I just believe they do.

This is a ridiculous and scientifically indefensible personal anecdote which seems to work for me. Go figure... or better yet, go set up a scientific experiment...If you are convinced that ultimately science isn't a social enterprise with acceptance of our teacher's and their teacher's biases and mores. Of course, someone eventually breeches the etiquette and we can start all over again.

Anyway, this is a good thread with much thoughtful input to think about. Hope my thought_less OT hasn't ruined it. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

formatting link

sort of like whether or not you use biscuits on paint cherry, Rick... whatever works for you and gives you the desired results is the "correct" way to do it..

In Bill Grumbine's bowl turning video, he refers to his "80 grit gouge" a few times... Personally, I find that stiff backed 120 grit w/d paper makes a great skew and gives my that certain shape or curve that my toools/skill level won't provide.. YMMV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Wasn't looking for a word, but the jury, in the form of the microscope, has decided that issue.

You should be sceptical. If the same result is reported with different times, like this, odds are that the variable has no affect at all.

You'll excuse me for discounting your evaluations a touch for not knowing or looking up the word glycerol.

While you're there, look up dehydration, and see if it's the same as drying....

Has anyone experimented with boiling in a LDD and water solution? I did try the alcohol bath on some small 5/8 inch thick madrone slabs, and got mixed results, with soaking times of 3 hours to 3 days. But like one guy I know says about Madrone, "that s*** starts to split when you fire up the chainsaw!" robo hippy

Boiling permanently weakens the wood. That's why they don't heat kilns over about 180. No difference to us as turners, though. There's a bit of plasticizing, but the advocates of the method don't manipulate the wood while its steaming. You can, of course. Did some microwave and shape stuff back when. May do it again someday. You can get a combination turning/bentwood object that appeals to some, but it's a bugger to sand the funny shapes.

Oh yeah - WEAR GLOVES!

What exactly do you mean by "mixed results" robo?

Well, some pieces seemed to dry straight with no cracks. Some warped badly, and in opposite directions, even though they were taken is sequence from the burl. Some had little warping, and few cracks. I had a little bit of everything except consistency. I still have some big chunks of the burl left, and will try the boiling (which is supposed to be the only way to stabilize madrone), and LDD. Maybe it will be different, maybe not. Madrone is weird. I like to turn it thin and wet, and watch it move. I have one bowl that I just finished. It is natural edge, 4 1/4 to 5 1/2 high, 5 3/4 wide, and 9 long. I think it is done moving, but with Madrone, it is hard to tell. robo hippy

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required