Soft wood question

Hey folks, been a while since I've had an opportunity to come by and check in. Been kinda hectic around here with the dissertation in full swing and just returning from a trip to see the outlaws in Germany. Which leads me to a quesion, I brought back some birch from Germany and a piece of beech from a wood pile where we stayed. The beech turned beautifully. The birch on the other hand, not so well. The wood seemed to be soft, almost rotted, but still quite solid. The tree was supposedly cut this spring. Since I've no experience with birch, I was wandering if it is the nature of this wood to rot rather quickly, or is it just that darn soft. Either way, anyone have any suggestions for what I should do. I hate to toss it aside, it come from my mother-in-laws garden and I figured to return to her a bowl from her tree. Is there anything that can be put onto the wood that might harden it?

Thanks in advance,

JD (Kentucky)

Reply to
JD
Loading thread data ...

Sounds like the wood might be "punky"?

Try dripping a little very thin CA on it... Keep out of "sniffing" range, because if it's punky, you might see smoke/steam and you DON'T want to breath it..

Usually, if the wood is punky but not ugly, CA will harden/stabilize it and it should turn and sand fine..

Like any glue, it can effect or even reject a finish, some more than others.. I've found that Danish oil blends pretty well with CA.. YMWV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

"mac davis" wrote: Try dripping a little very thin CA on it... (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ A product called "Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer" is wonderful for punky wood. I have seen it used, and used it myself, for stabilizing some pretty porous rot. I have used it to repair (rather than replace) rotted window sash. Made by Smith and Company, Richmond, CA.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

In message , Hotfoot writes

That's interesting, I run that concept through Ronseals technical department towards the end of last year , and they said that the solution only penetrated about 1/8th inch. Maybe something I will give a try now.

Reply to
John

Personally, I'd probably toss it. Some penetrating oils (like Watco Danish oil) will harden wood, but it is not intended to be a fix.

Reply to
Phisherman

Polycryl from Preservation Solutions does a pretty good job of making punky wood ready to turn. Here is the product information from their web site:

"Polycryl The wood fortifier. Do you have a piece of soft, punky, or spalted wood that you would like to turn? Then give this product a try, it will strengthen the wood and make it easier to work with, especially for turners. It dries clear and will not yellow in the wood. Easy and safe to use. All types of finishes and glues can be used once Polycryl has dried into the wood."

I've used this product a few times, but I generally throw out punky wood, but when it has some sentimental value such as your piece of Birch, it is worth trying to save it.

Fred Holder

Reply to
Fred Holder

It would be interesting if one could microwave it on low to work on all of it at a time.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.

formatting link

Hotfoot wrote:

----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----

formatting link
The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

I like to use imperfect pieces of wood for my turnings / carvings. I use spalted and rotted birch, for example:

formatting link
and
formatting link
To be honest, much time was spent to keep (glue) the bark on. Thin CA hardens, but doesn't penetrate as deep as you often want. I have a totally gone birch burl waiting to be turned. Don't know yet how I'm gonna stabilize it, perhaps Polycryl.

Reply to
Gerard

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.