I have been end-turning beetle-kill pine recently, and soaking it in a combination of urethane, mineral oil, and linseed oil (ala Phil Brennion). The piece looks stunning when it is still damp after soaking, but fades a good deal when it is dry. Does anyone have any ideas about what to put on as a final finish to keep the high gloss, wet-looking appearance?
Bob
If you really want the "wet look" (which is different in some subtle way from the gloss you get with a French polish or the like) you might want to experiment with an automotive or marine clearcoat polyurethane--this is _not_ like the stuff you get at Home Depot and you may find that its use is more involved than you want to get--among other things it's a two (or more)-component coating that usually has to be sprayed--there are some brushables but I don't know if they can produce a "wet look" finish.
Assuming that I might want to soak/dry/sand/resoak some of the pieces, how long would I need to wait until putting urethane on them?
Bob
Don't really know the answer to that. I've not used a 2K urethane on turnings, my experience with it is in the aircraft industry, where it's applied to composites and metals.
Here is another idea, polish the finish you have. The finish needs to be completely dried and cured or this does not work. You also need a good thick finish layer or you may buff through the finish. Use a automotive polishing or rubbing compond, or a commercial buffing compound on a soft rag or wheel. The results are amazing. Brad Harding hardingpens.com
While it is pretty hard in some areas to get real turpentine at the hardware store, virtually any art supply store should carry it, since any oil painter worth their beret wouldn't be caught dead using synthetic turpentine...or so I've heard.
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.