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Parting off question

I've been wondering about something ever since I read the thread about cutting a blank to make a bowl and platter. Is it possible to use a coping saw with a deep throat to part off? It seems like it would be a good way to part off. The stresses would be (mostly) along the blade if you went slowly, which is how the saw is designed to work. You'd have to go very slowly and probably brace the saw on the tool rest, but that should be pretty easy.

The only two issues I can think of are:

  1. Heat. You'd want to get the largest blade you could find to provide more mass to keep the temperature down.

  1. You'd have to be very careful that your cut was exactly perpendicular to the axis of revolution. Otherwise, the saw cut would be a cone, and the blade would bind.

David

Reply to
David Walthall
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I've had good success using a hacksaw blade. Quite a thin kerf is obtained using this method. Make sure the blades teeth are oriented correctly (into the motion of the workpiece). Do keep the saw moving, otherwise you're only cutting with 1 or 2 teeth and they will get VERY hot.

ARM - Any good ideas out of North America are purely occidental.

Reply to
Alan McClure

DANGER WILL ROBINSON! DANGER!

Saw blades can get caught in the kerf, snap off, and become finger removal devices. Keep the saw put away until the spindle is locked.

Reply to
Brad the Lurker

If this was such a great idea, someone would have done it 200 years ago. I can just inagine a blade whipping around a piece in a lathe because it caught and broke and is still flipping around as the lathe turns. BAD IDEA!!! Use the tool developed for it. Always use the tool developed for ANYTHING- shortcuts usually kill you.

Reply to
Ramsey

I often use a coping saw to part off...but >>never

Reply to
Chuck

I don't think I'd try a coping saw blade. I've used hacksaw and the stronger reciprocating saw blades resting on the toolrest and having the blade *under* the spinning piece. You just pull down on the "handle end" (which I protect my hand by wrapping the teeth with something hard or just making a wooden handle for it.... it WILL grab and rip out of your hand guaranteed) and it cuts really pretty quickly. It still burns the wood though. It also digs into your toolrest.

Regarding your "1." ... Actually, you're going to want the smallest blade possible while STILL having it strong enough to do the job well and (relatively) safely. A smaller blade means less surface area and less heat generated.

Regarding your "2." ... Yep. You got it!

Be careful if you're going to do this with the lathe running. I've had them bind and snap off or fly around. It can be dangerous.

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

Bruce wrote: I have a coping saw that has a blade that is thin but 1/2" tall. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's not fair--having a tool I didn't even know existed!

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Call me chicken, but I'd never use any kind of saw to part off a piece with the lathe running. A Japanese pull saw cuts fast and leaves a narrow kerf............but please don't use it with the lathe running.

Barry

Reply to
Barry N. Turner

i part-down to less than 1/8th. TURN OFF LATHE, use Japanese saw to finish cut.

Reply to
noa

Hey Leo:

I picked up the saw at a garage sale. Hop over to

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Go to forums, then tools. I'll post a picture there for you to see.

The Other Bruce (Known there as travlr7)

Reply to
Bruce

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